Kinky Nikz 2.0 - The Holy Grail

I have found the most wonderful product in the world - bar none! It’s my new Holy Grail, my go to during my many times of need, desperation and crispy hair! GLYCERINE J

Vegetable glycerine also known as vegetable glycerol is a carbohydrate that is usually derived from plant oils. It is used as a sweetener and as an ingredient in a number of cosmetic products and is also used in place of alcohol to extract botanicals.

Glycerine is known to improve moisture and smoothness to your hair. It provides lubrication and acts as humectants which means it draws in moisture into your hair and skin. Glycerine is also highly "hydroscopic" which means that it absorbs water from the air. For example: if you left a bottle of pure glycerine exposed to air in your kitchen, it would take moisture from the air and eventually, it would become 80% glycerine and 20% water.

The Science

Glycerine is an organic compound composed of three carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and three OH groups. These OH groups form hydrogen bonds with water, slowing down its movement and giving liquid glycerine the property of syrup. It is also resistant to freezing, a property used in storing sensitive liquids, such as enzymes, in laboratory freezers.

Its solubility in alcohol and water has led to vast utility in the manufacturing of products. Glycerine is used in a large number of cosmetic and household products, such as toothpastes and shampoo. It is also a component of glycerine soap, which is often used by people with sensitive skin. This soap acts as moisturiser to prevent the skin from drying out. For this same reason, glycerine lotion is also hugely popular.

There are also medical uses for vegetable glycerine. Glycerine suppositories are used as laxatives. It can also be used as a topical remedy for a number of skin problems, including psoriasis, rashes, burns, bedsores, and cuts. Glycerine is also employed to treat gum disease, as it kills associated bacterial colonies.

Benefits of Glycerine for Hair

Apart from being able to return moisture back to dry hair, scalp or skin, glycerine for hair growth is also used. Using glycerine you can condition dry, frizzy and brittle hair. If you are suffering from dry, flaky scalp then rubbing some vegetable glycerine on scalp can greatly alleviate irritation. This is especially beneficial for those trying to infuse moisture into their curly locks and those who suffer from dry hair or flaky scalp issues. Apart from moisturising benefits of glycerine for hair care, it also greatly helps to strengthen the hair, which leads to less breakage of the hair, and less formation of split ends.

Precautions

It is important that you avoid using glycerine if you are staying in a place, that has extremely dry weather because glycerine on skin or hair might attract moisture from the hair strands or the skin. This can result into blisters on skin, or make the hair even drier. However, if you are using glycerine in dry weather you can try mixing it with jojoba oil, and then use it on your hair or skin. Also, while using glycerine in regular weather, mix it with water and then apply it to keep your hair and skin well moisturised.

Recipe No.1

1/4 camomile tea
1 tsp honey
2 to 3 tsp glycerine
2 to 3 tsp of your favourite vegetable oil
3 to 6 drops essential oil (3 drops rosemary, as a preservative + 3 of your favourite one for smell or just 6 rosemary oil)
Put in a spritz and shake well, You can double the proportions of oil & glycerine if you wish, but keep honey low ... will last 2 weeks

Recipe No. 2

• 4 oz. of distilled water 
• 2 Tbs. of Vegetable Glycerine
• 1 Tbs. of Jojoba Oil
• 5 drops of Rosemary Oil

My Recipe

·         25% Vegetable Glycerine

·         25% Conditioner (Hello Hydration)

·         50% Water

*I think I will begin using Aloe Vera juice in my mixture to add even more moisture*

Other products that contain glycerine include S-Curl No Drip Spray or Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion, which many naturals have quote as staple hair products as these products are all "water/glycerine" based and provide your hair with excellent moisture.

Glycerine based products:-

·          Oyin's handmade Juice and Berries (Order online) – apparently this smells gorgeous

Lusters S-Curl 

Activator/Moisturizer

 No Drip 355 ml Bonus

Wave Nouveau Moisturizer 

Finishing Mist 500 ml

Soft Sheen Carson Care

 Free Curl Instant Moisturizer 240 ml

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Black Men, Black Hair

‘Who said a black man couldn’t love a woman with natural hair?’


The quote of the day comes from a couple on a facebook group entitled ‘Black Men who Love Women with Natural Hair’.

When I started my ascent into ‘naturaldom’ I never thought about how men may perceive me or how their approach may change. I was in a new relationship with a man that seemed happy with my appearance. I was just thinking about the new experience, how good it felt to be 100% me excluding all fixtures and fittings but I couldn’t help but note how the scales tipped.

During the straight days I was often approached by men, hell, I had a good few on my checklist, on standby, waiting to be one of the chosen few (lol!) but as soon as I started growing my own hair it all changed. It reaffirmed the age old message that men are superficial creatures (as if I could forget), just as superficial as us women, they don’t see hidden depths in an appearance, they see breasts, hips and ass and if many of them are to have it there own way, long, straight hair.

You see, from what I have noted, black men are attracted to long hair (an attribute which is never associated with black women) and who can blame them? Their mothers, sisters, aunties, cousins all sport the same look and long hair is considered good hair, hair that many black women aspire to have. Now on this note, I am fully aware that many of my blog posts may be considered a generalisation, an account that makes black men seem ignorant but stereotypes are stereotypes for a reason and I guarantee that ALL of you reading this piece of editorial know a black man that puts ‘good haired’ women on a pedestal and wouldn’t spit on us nappy’s. But is that such a bad thing?


I mean yes, the majority of the kind of men that used to approach me don’t anymore but the ones that do, come with intelligent conversation and genuine comments. They are less absorbed in the flesh, blood and bones of this land and more concerned with content of your inner. Obviously, this is just my experience and I can’t speak for every natural out there but I did think that this would be a good opportunity to get a male opinion on the topic of black women with natural hair.

“Ok, so where do I begin. I suppose I should start by introducing myself… nah, on second thoughts, I think I’ll delve straight into the heart of the issue. Before I do so though; I’ve got some questions, not from the ‘black male’ perspective although I am a black male asking, ‘‘can we have some perspective here/hair please ladies’’?



Right… Why would you choose to have your hair in any other textural state than it was intended (… and that, ‘it’s easier to manage’ nonsense won’t wash)? What’s the real reason behind mercilessly ‘frying’ and chemically burning into submission your eau-naturelle strands? Is it social acceptance? Is it a negative self-image which is apparently remedied by; weave; wigs and perms? Does it in all actuality, point towards a lack of self esteem? Are the fake nails, fake eyelashes, and general ‘makeup’ indicative of some form of mental imbalance? Look, before you get upset, like I said; let’s have some perspective.


How do I view black women who go against the grain and don their natural hair?



Generally, I think it’s a ‘power move’. I think it shows strength of character and in a sense, leadership qualities. Remember, in former flourishing civilisations, females held the reigns and steered their nation onto great things for telling durations of time.

I think it demonstrates willingness to, metaphorically, detach from the masses… And Self Actualise. FYI. Self Actualisation isn’t ‘new age’ phenomenon – all it means is; you don’t ‘business’ what opinions people have of you. Not that you’re unaware of others opinions, just that you Trust and Value your own opinion more. It’s, based on a famous theorists, pinnacle of human needs, as in; your needs are generally satisfied through rationality, soul searching and/or internally. If you still don’t get it; are you comfortable with your own company?

I’ve found that when I hit the roads with my ‘missus’, be it: dinner, raving or… museums, the compliments are literally consistent. This leads me to believe that more of you females would take the bold step and go eau-naturelle if you thought you wouldn’t be marginalised, and viewed as unattractive.
I’ll close with this; if you’re curious, go for it! There’s a saying, ‘Enter Any Action With Boldness’.”


Swoon!!! Smart and good looking! Preach…


For me, the bottom line is live how you want but make informed decisions. Black men that tend to favour Eurocentric hair types don’t do so out of a pre-determined preference but out of instinctive ignorance - the same ignorance that almost forces black women to alter their hair texture.


Natural women ARE sexy and just to prove my point I thought I’d leave you with a little eye candy this week. Check out my natural hotties from the fore mentioned facebook page and if you have the time, log on and check out the discussion boards but beware, you may be left arguing with the screen for a few hours!

Peace, Love and Nappyness!


KN

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Nappy Regime

So this week was the dreaded weekend. Why? Because it involved wash day! Yes, every three weeks (well, in the winter, probably more so in the hotter months) it rolls around and i get to do my beloved treatments and try out some new fandangle deep conditioning method. So this week I thought I would take you through my hair regime.

Below is a picture of the products I used (I forgot to include the egg and herbal tea I used).

Every month I try and henna my hair as this is my chosen protein treatment. People in South Asia, North Africa and the Middle East have been using henna for years as part of their hair regime because its conditioning properties ensure strong, shiny hair that has an instant fullness. Don’t believe me? Try it out for yourself.

Now, I mix one and a half packs of henna with green tea that has cooled, honey and one egg and let the mixture sit for one hour (the length of time depends on the type of henna).

In that hour it’s time to detangle and as you have all heard, this can prove to be a time consuming process…tip to root!

After shampooing once with my gorgeous, candy smelling Neutrogena Triple Moisture shampoo, that you can only sadly get in the US, and conditioning with Hello Hydration, I allowed my hair to air dry for 20 minutes before applying the henna mixture. I know I said that I only rarely use shampoo but my hair was full of product and greasing up my pillow so it was a must.

Now this I where it gets messy…Once the henna is mixed it looks like mud and smells like bush or forest floor or hay, so once I have applied it generously all over my hair, I wrap and seal the stench with cling film and leave it to sit for six hours…that’s right, six  minimum!

Silly me! I bought the wrong henna packet and this one had loads of twigs in it! This was a nightmare to get out. The mixture takes a good few rinses go get rid of on a good day but the twigs made things even more difficult. After rinsing and co-washing (washing with conditioner) for about 20 minutes, I left my hair to deep condition with Hello Hydration for two hours but my hair was instantly fluffy and thick.

Since I didn’t actually wake up and start the treatment process until 11am by the time I finished it was 11pm (I left my henna in for eight hours) and I was knackered. Nevertheless, my hair still needed to air dry before I could twist it. I just slapped some Elasta QP Mango Butter in my hair, finger combed and plait in small sections so it so would dry overnight and bish bash bosh, the job was done!

Henna Facts:

1. Always ask for body art quality henna and not henna for hair, it has too many chemicals in it. I get mine in a wholesale shop on Ealing Road but anywhere where there is a prominent Asian community should stock it
2. Henna does dye your hair; it is a natural colorant for hair. The original stuff will dye your hair a deep red colour (depending on your natural shade) but there are some alternatives such as Indigo/ black henna. I understand Lush also stocks henna with the same conditioning properties
3. You can use henna on natural or chemically processed hair types
4. Stronger Hair – When the lawsone (dye) molecule goes into the hair it penetrates the hair shaft some, binding with the keratin in the hair. This makes hair stronger, but also is one of the qualities that make henna removal near impossible. Henna also coats the hair and fills in rough spots on a frayed cuticle. This adds a second layer of strength, but it does not lock out moisture
5. Henna makes your hair dry so it is important to follow up with a deep moisturising conditioner or your hair can become very brittle
6. Loss or reduction in curl- The protein in the henna weighs down hair strands and this in turn elongates your curl pattern and reduces shrinkage. If your curls/coils are quite loose, it may be an idea to try an alternative like cassia or bentonite clay

Please note that all of the information presented in my blogs is based on my personal experience. Make sure that you follow the links or Google any products or treatments that you are interested in using so you are fully aware of the positive and negative aspects.

Catch up next week…

Peace, Love and Nappyness J

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Napptural Product Connoisseur

One very positive aspect of being natural is that you tend to focus your energy on products/ ingredients you use in your hair, put on your skin and in your body. The effect is healing and has made me ever more conscience of the products I use. Growing up you’re exposed to hair grease and drying shampoo’s but I’m here to let both you naturals and relaxed chica’s and fella’s (if there are any out there!) in on a few secrets about the products out there.

Many commercially available hair care products denoted as being for afro hair use harmful ingredients. The following ingredients are awful for ethnic or African hair, not only stifling our hair’s health, true texture, and hair growth, but also harmful to the body.

1) Isopropyl Alcohol: Dries and Breaks Ethnic hair. It is found in colour rinses, anti-freeze

2) Mineral Oil/ Petrolatum (Hair Grease): It used as a moisturiser in afro hair care products; however, it coats Ethnic hair, actually preventing moisture from getting into the thirsty hair. It is a derivative of crude oil and a cheap industrial grease component. It also prevents the release of toxins from hair and alters the skin respiration by preventing oxygen release. Mmmhmmmm....

3) Polyethylene Glycol (PEG): Strips afro hair of critical moisture. Used as an emulsifier in products, dissolves oils and grease.

4) Propylene Glycol (PG): An active component in many afro hair care products make up, lotions, mouthwashes, and deodorant, PG is the active component of anti-freeze and actually deteriorates the protein and cellular structure of hair. Protein is what your hair needs to thrive. Workers actually use gloves and goggles when dealing with this substance due to its chemical side effects and toxicity.

5) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)/ Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) : A cheap foaming and thickening agent that strips hair of moisture and causes skin and scalp irritation. 95% of all hair shampoos contain this ingredient or a derivative. Avoid it completely; TEA lauryl is just as bad, if not worse. Do not be fooled by the use of the word TEA. Hence why i very rarely use shampoo and stick with conditioners.

6) Diethanolamine (DEA), Momoethnanolamine (MEA), Triethanolamine (TEA) : Usually listed as an ingredient containing a neutralising compound, i.e. as Cocamide DEA or Lauramide DEA, repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents are known to form cancer causing nitrates

7) Avoid Hair Colouring, Rinses, and Dyes. Look on the pack of the ingredient label and check for FD & C Colours: Many individuals with afro hair experience scalp irritation due to these. If you have an irritated scalp, your hair will not grow long or remain healthy.

8) Avoid Products with Chemical Preservatives: Nearly all brands of Black and Ethnic Skin and hair care products contain hair and health harmful toxins, especially parabens that are used to extend products’ shelf lives. While these companies make huge profits, it is at the expense of your hair and health being exposed to cancer causing elements, such as formaldehyde or formaldehyde-donors which can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin reactions and trigger heart palpitations.

9) Abandon your typical beauty supply store. Curly or ethnic hair needs natural hair care products because the sulphates, chemicals, alcohols, and silicones in 99% of hair care products have a moisture stripping effect. Ethnic hair needs moisture to grow, become strong, and stay manageable. Without moisture your hair will become dry and damaged. Try Beauty 4 Ashes GodHead ( http://www.discoverb4a.com/ a great all natural) or Tigi BedHead (Tigi Bed Head Superstar Sulfate Free Shampoo 250ml a quality synthetic shampoo). Please note, I have never used these products but they have been recommended by other natural sisters.

10) Try to purchase all natural hair care products tailored for your hair type. Visit your local health foods store or find great hair care product for purchase online. The hair care industry is finally seeing the light and making hair care products that truly work for ethnic hair. Beauty 4 Ashes Christian Health & Beauty, a beauty conglomerate, acclaimed internationally, makes 100% natural ethnic hair care products for general hair health and hair growth (www.discoverb4a.com). Their products have received great ratings in the US as well.

So, there you have it, the list of products to steer clear of but in saying all of that my key advice would be to listen to your hair. If you try something that contains one or more of the above (which i have), don’t fret. If your hair enjoys it then it may not be so bad after all but at least you’re enlightened as to what exactly it is.

Peace, Love and Nappyness dudes!

KN

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Is Natural hair healthy hair?

Before I start spewing some facts about things that can cause damage to hair I just need to share something with you all. Anyone that is a friend of mine on facebook may have seen the quote below this week.

‘Youth is wasted on the young’ Oscar Wilde

The thought process behind the quote is simple. I went home to my mums last weekend to do my laundry (don’t judge me!) and my little sister was running around talking to her friend on loudspeaker, whilst practising some dance routine. Greeting her as I stepped into the house I noticed that her hair was very straight and in two ponytails but didn’t think too much of it. Later on Saturday evening it cross my mind and I called my mum (ready for a showdown) to ask if she had relaxed my twelve year old sisters hair. When she told me that my sister had taken it upon herself to textures her own hair, I was distraught, I felt physical pain, I felt betrayed because everyone in my household is natural and I have tried my best to pass on my knowledge so she too can love her beautiful, natural hair. Since then I’ve wondered why she didn’t do as I did and look at my brother’s healthy, 11 inch afro and think that she could have the same. Why did she ruin what was naturally given to her? I have since discussed the situation among friends and come to the conclusion that children will be children and will ultimately make their own mistakes. It just hurts to know that she doesn’t quite realise what she had in the first place L.

Okay, enough about me, let me address some issues about natural hair. How many of you assume that because one may not have any chemicals in their hair that hair is healthy? Well, if that is what you think, you are wrong.

Porosity is a form of damage caused by creating more pores in the hairs structure through breaks and cracks. It can be caused by many reasons and not even you naturals can escape it so pay attention. Here are just a few causes of porosity:

1. Shampooing, towel drying and combing

These three are some of the most common reasons for cuticle damage and are called ‘mechanical damage’. It occurs when scrubbing the hair with shampoo, rubbing wet hair with a towel and combing wet hair to remove tangles. The more aggressive you are, the more susceptible your hair will be to damage. Because of this, I always ensure that I wash my hair with a non-abrasive substance such as conditioner and even then, I only wash my scalp, the conditioner/shampoo should be allowed to run down the hair shaft and take any grime with it, you should not have to tug on your wet hair. I also ensure that I pat my hair dry if I use a towel or I use a softer material like an old T-shirt and I never comb my hair when it is soaking wet, I will only tackle it when it has air dried for a while and is damp.

2. Light

UV light/ sunlight also damages the cuticle with a study from the Journal of Cosmetic science showing that damage starts after 200 hours of exposure which is a fairly long time. So when you are off on those fabulous beach holidays try and take a hat and a conditioner with sun protection to prevent your hair from frying whilst you’re trying to catch some colour.

3. Chemical Treatment (relaxing, bleaching etc)

All of these processes are an open invitation to porosity on a grand scale. Cuticle lifting, cracks, holes and entire sections of the hair structure missing are common with these types of treatments hence the thinning of the hair over time.

4. Environmental conditions

As we all know, the British temperature sits a below 10 degrees about 70% of the year and the cold air and wind has serious effects on your hair. Even though I end up looking like a 15 year old, I try to keep my hair in protective styles for most of the winter and have done well so far this winter. I generally only undo my hair to wash it or if I’m making an effort to dazzle on the dance floor! Other than that my hair stays tucked away and moisturised until the sun comes out.

5. Long Hair

     Those blessed with longer lengths often take their tresses for granted but remember, the          longer the hair, the older the hair, which means that it is more likely to become damaged due to the fore mentioned elements. Don’t get lazy, hold onto that drive you had when you were trying to get your hair to reach your belly button (yes that is my aim) and show your hair some love. Be sure to deep condition with different products so your hair can get the many benefits. I definitely recommend henna which is a strengthening protein treatment and I am looking forward to trying honey, yoghurt, mayonnaise and some other homemade mixes when I have the time and energy!

HENNA WAX ORIGINAL

 HAIR CONDITIONER 400GM

 NATURAL CLASSIC

Sad times, I am at my word limit already…be sure to get at me next week when I’ll be taking moisture to new levels.

Peace, love and Nappyness

KN

Calamity Jane #9 - Ninth Circle of hell (Treason)

As abruptly as it all began, it ended. ……………..

Sadly not as Hollywood would have intended; with a me walking away, pride in hand, wearing an Armani suit with shoulder pads, four inch Manolo’s, my (fake) hair swishing in the wind (think Working Girl circa 1980s), having eventually tired of the perilous bi-weekly trips to the salon, where I was physically and emotionally endangered.

No... That kind of ending belongs in fairy tales, or the modern day equivalent – Fake DVDs sold by the China man on Brixton Hill... Ironically the catastrophe that was my hairdressing experience was cut short not because I finally saw sense and walked away, but rather, because without warning Keesha, packed up shop and walked away.  In her traditional style, she did so without a second thought for the very people one would assume she would value – her clients!

Subsumed by the torrent of abuse I’d received from friends and family for my addiction fuelled persistent trips back to Keesha. Made worse by the indoctrination of my younger susceptible sister (I got her hooked and like crack it consumed her), I was ill prepared for the act of treason (or sadistic irony) that was to befall me. 

It all happened when........

With no appointment (I had quickly realised appointments were a trite semblance of order that simply did not exist in the mechanics of this salon) I took myself one Saturday morning to Peckham for a steam and a shape up. Prepared as I was for the inevitable wait with book in arm, iPod in ear, packed lunch in bag, I wasn’t surprised to find the shutters down.  I trotted along to God Bless Caribbean restaurant next door to the woman, whose arse was literally the size of a small country (I’m all for back-off but DAMN!) and requested the key to let myself in......

‘Gone you say, gone where?’... ‘I don’t know darling’ was her unconvincing response. In a panic I tried all four of Keesha’s numbers only to find the lines completely dead or diverting to voicemail. With all those numbers, it baffled me that she was so often in contactable. Hmmmm immigration? I pondered.

So, just like that with a simple exchange of stifling pleasantries, I learnt that Keesha had moved on and I was back to square one with mashed up hair, seeking a slamming cheap salon.

You see for all the waiting, the occasional burns, the stolen merchandise, the violence, bordering on child abuse, the salon remained my own private sanctuary. A place where crudeness was the order of the day and time had no common place. It provided me with countless tales that have enriched many a dinner party, and for that I will be eternally grateful.

Thank you for reading my jaunt through the inferno, which although not the requiem of spirituality Dante would have intended it be, turned out to be an entertaining exploration of the soul of the south (London that is).

For now I bid you adieu.

CJ

Blackhairstudio would like to thank Calamity Jane for her fabulous and hilarious contribution to our blog, your Nine Circles of Hell have been nine moments of pleasure for us. We hope you will be back soon!

DQ.

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Learning how to maintain your naps

How many of you remember lifting your shoulders to your ears and wincing in pain as your mother dragged a comb through your tightly coiled hair? Or loving that you get to undo your braids but hating when wash day came around? My first memories of a young girl with natural hair were never associated with positivity, just pain and unhappiness. As soon as my plaits were let loose I used to jump around and shake my head like the women on the television advertising hair products but I dare anyone to try and hold me down to get it washed...It was horrible and I swear my mum was trying to drown me. 
It is easy to reflect and laugh at the whole experience but I’m pretty certain that the actions of our parents/hairdressers is what allows those with thick curly/coily hair believe that are hair is unruly, unmanageable and bad. It makes us believe that this is the type of hair that needs to be tamed when the truth is; it was just never cared for properly. So, I thought that I would scrape the surface this week and discuss a few key factors that will ensure healthy, long (yes long!), afro hair.

1. No, dirt does not grow your hair lol

Growing up I was often told that I shouldn’t wash my hair too often as it was bad for your hair and would make your hair break. Seriously, this was the belief and I know people that only washed their hair every six months because apparently this was fact. What nonsense! The truth is that washing your hair often and using the right products can have a really positive effect on afro hair. Water is one of the few substances that can actually penetrate the hairs cuticle and acts as a moisturiser, hence why your hair always feels soft when wet. A problem only occurs when the hair is not fully cared for following a wash and moisture is not replenished. I will discuss the different moisturising products and methods in another blog.

2. Use the right equipment

I’m sure that most of you realise that to avoid breakage you should use a wide toothed comb to detangle hair when wet or damp but your comb should be seamless. Check the inside and edges of your comb and the line that goes down each tooth for bad manufacturing which can mean that the seams overlap and snag the hair during combing. Bone combs are typically made of resin and are seamless, wooden combs spread the scalps natural oil throughout the hair and tortoise combs glide through hair. Check out Sally’s beauty supply shop to find ‘tenderheaded accessories’ or ‘honeyfig’ which supply a seamless comb range. 
If you prefer brushes, try the trusty denman brush or if you feel like splurging the mason pearson combs and brushes although it does nothing but give me split ends.

3. Combing your curlies

Stop combing your hair so much! Excessive grooming can cause split ends. When I tell people that I very rarely comb my hair they look surprised but all l I need is my fingers. I spritz my hair with some water and coconut oil or an everyday conditioner (usually Pantene/ Aussie moist) and finger comb or use my metal rat tail comb for straight partings when I’m plaiting it. I would not even attempt to rake a comb through my dry hair, the more tightly curled your hair is the more gentle you need to be, so I gently comb through my hair from tip to root on wash day and then leave it alone. If I need to manipulate it into a style then a little conditioner and some braids or twists generally does the trick.
Detangling knotted hair 
It’s a good idea to detangle your hair before washing it. Once hair is wet, the cuticles can lift, causing hair to snarl even further.


1. First, identify the tangle and separate it from the rest of your hair with your fingers.
2. Start at the bottom of the tangle and use the detangling comb to gently start picking through the snarl.
3. Work your way up the tangle until you’re able to comb through it without tugging. This may take a lot of patience and you may need to turn the detangling comb sideways and use a single tooth on the end of the comb to work through a very tight snarl.
4. To prevent tangles in the future, be sure to comb out your wet hair after shampooing, conditioning and applying a leave-in conditioner. (Never, ever brush wet hair – hair is very fragile when it’s wet and a brush could stretch the fiber, causing it to snap).
That’s all for now folks but next week I will be talking more about hair processes that work.


KN

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Can nappy really mean happy?

Hey Chipolatas,

Thanks for the amazing response to last week’s blog. It’s a good thing you can all appreciate a bit of honesty, because honestly, a bit of honesty’s always honestly appreciated! 


So, I was thinking about what to write about next; could you ingest wise words, digest balanced advice and have a giggle… while patting your head and rubbing your belly?
Seriously, since I really can’t do any of that I thought it best stick to what I know.
Pondering on what part of this epic journey I should blog about, I figured how else to start but with natural perceptions. The things people think about you and don’t say. The things people assume because you wear your hair a certain way. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that naturalistas are the only people that come across such judgemental attitudes but having had relaxed hair for 10 years, the reactions from various people are often quite telling.
I’m sure every natural has heard “your hair is so nice but I couldn’t do that, my hair is too nappy.”…Hello, we have the same kind of hair!


Now, the thing that is sad but oh so true is that the bad reactions I get are from black people. People of my own race, those that have similar hair and skin to mine, those that should understand the struggle to stay natural in a Eurocentric society that is far removed from our natural selves. You’d think they’d understand…but do they? Do they ever? Now, I will talk about the reactions from men another time, another post but for now, let me draw your focus to black women.


So, what is it about a natural hair that get’s black women emotional? From the looks I get from some, I would assume it’s either the sheer disdain for what lies under their own weaves, relaxers or braids or perhaps in actual fact they honestly believe that they are somehow above you and well out of your league because they have straight hair. And it’s true, I should know. I used to be that girl sniggering with my friend because some girl’s hair didn’t blow in the wind. But when I think about it, I was actually a bit jealous, we all were. The girls that donned their natural hair generally had loads of it, thick hair that was not easily tamed. We all wanted that hair and needed the confidence to just be. 
That was way back when but as an adult I encounter the same attitudes. The need to change what is naturally given to us. It does make me wonder about the psyche of some people? If you dislike your hair so much that you would pay someone to burn it into submission, then what else would you do to change? Where does it end? Now, do not get me wrong, I am all for change be it physical or mental but having this mass of protein on my head has made me focus on my inner being, understand my culture and it has even made me question the kind of person I am. Because I am not the person that questions the beauty of the darkest skin, the fullest lips and the widest nose. I can appreciate the shortest, curliest of hair that reaches for the sun just as much as I can love caramel skin and straight hair that hangs long.


So, to the question, can nappy really mean happy I say YES, because nappy is real and only through being natural have I learnt to truly understand my culture and gain a sense of self that was never apparent before.
Only through being nappy (and I mean this in a positive way) have I learnt the real implications of the things I put in my body and on my skin. I have a better understanding of the food that the government so readily provides and the chemicals that pollute them but let’s no go to deep this week. I’m simply happy being nappy because nappy is a better me.


KN

In Pursuit of Nappyness… Introducing Kinky Nikz 2.0

Hi Bloggesphere,

I heard about this website a few weeks ago and thought it was a great idea. What a great opportunity to showcase my fabulous writing skills (J) and say a lot about… well, stuff! But then I was actually given the opportunity to write my first blog and I was stumped; what was I going to say? What would I call myself? I mean, would anyone give a flying Kcuf? Answer: probably not. But hey, does it really matter? I decided to approach the blog like most other things in my life, head on, without fear and with positive karma or as my boyfriend say’s, ‘enter any action with boldness!’. 

So, here goes. I thought it only right to begin with letting you know who I am and what gives me the right to evade your mind space.

I am the kind of person who likes change…often. So when I was thinking about a new hairstyle for probably the third time in 2008, my colleague suggested I grow an afro so they can hide things in it. You may well laugh but, to be honest, it wasn’t a bad idea (the growing part). So I spoke to the very few natural haired ladies that I know to help make my decision. I mean, I have only dealt with short relaxed her for my whole adult life, what was I about to do with a ‘fro?

I mean, don’t get me wrong, I cut my hair for fun on the worst days but this time it was different. This time I would let it grow back naturally.

Now, when you think about it, this should have no bearing on my decision. The aim is to grow my hair naturally (okay, I know you got that much), the way God intended it to come out of the follicles on my epidermis but yet I had to research and ask questions about what to expect. These days that just doesn’t sit right with me, why is this information not already apparent? I digress…after much deliberation and in an ‘I AM my own woman’ moment after an argument with my boyfriend, I sat in a barbers chair in Willesden and told him to shave my head, shave it clean.

I remember walking out of the barber smiling hard at this new liberation, I was bald, bold and free. If I had a convertible SLK I would have driven off into the sunset down the M1. Instead, I rubbed my head and jumped on the 266 back home to Harlesden.

Okay, so I have now cut my hair, of course there has to be a collation of thoughts and opinions and a general consensus on the new ‘do’. Everyone loved it, except my mum who gave me a nonchalant “when are you going to leave your head alone” (she is now very bored of my spur of the moment style changes!). There was just one more tiny thing, I was yet to see the man in my life and thought that turning up at his upcoming club night looking like earth mother was the ONLY thing to do. Let’s just say he approved. J

So anyway, to cut a long story short, let’s fast forward 1 year and 9 months and I love my fro, it’s 6 inches, it’s fierce, it’s me. I care for it like I would my first born child, we‘ve been through learning, misguidance, pain, disappointment, love and hate. My hair has taken me on a journey, it has dictated my lifestyle, it has made me feel unattractive and yet made me beam with pride.

Now, I’m no Oprah, and i will not be handing out a free car for tuning in next week but I will be sharing what I have learnt on my pilgrimage to nappturality. The products that scientifically work for black hair and ones that worked/ work for me, hair care regimes and all things natural. Please feel free to post any questions that you may have in the future and happy reading!!!

Kinky Nikz

Calamity Jane #4 - Fourth Circle of Hell (Greed)

As an African, my fancy dress attempts at school (a fetish we blacks neither dare nor care to understand) were never up to par and the concept of it still leaves me mystified. As my friends exerted energy (their mothers up, all night sewing and stitching and sweating until the dawn) creating a teenage mutant ninja turtle outfit from scratch; my mother would simply blot some black powder on my face, draw dots with her eye liner, and with the rest of my body adorned in my usual get up, send me off to school as Anansi, the folk character (spider) only blacks had heard of. And there were to total of four of us in my school. Two of whom were related to me.

Non school uniform day, by comparison, was the social event of my year. Weeks were spent planning meticulously, discounting every outfit in my wardrobe and justifying to my mother the benefit of a trip to view the latest collection at Tammy Girl.  The hair, (remembering it is pre relaxer as I wasn’t old enough for the chemicals), raw and rock hard. Being surrounded by little girls with spindly legs (even as a child I had strong thighs, or athletic as my sports coach would refer to my physique) and long flowing blond locks that whispered menacingly in the wind, I knew I had to impress….

The braids were removed, washed, blow dried (breaking the forks of more than one comb as it fought its way through my wild roots to freedom) and combed ‘down’ to my delight. Move over Shingai (Noisettes), I was rocking my hard core fro, loud and proud, way back in the day! There was the obvious ‘can I touch it?’, but I was impervious to any mocking about the height as opposed to length of my hair. My greed for the bigness outweighed my childish desire to blend in with my (melanin deprived) peers.

  

My big hair wasn’t limited to my childish fro of yesteryear, but spawned a desire (even if it meant a return to the ‘can I touch it’?) for the big, the bad and the most brazen hair I could muster. The bigger the better, except of course when referring to the size of my thighs, arms or butt…

The only problem with my desire for big hair is that my head is relatively small by most standards. Imagine the wig Erykah Badu is rocking on her new album and you have some concept of the scale of my hair.

I was greedy for more, and what started off as a modest afro, spawned into a manifestation of my rejection of the straight, glossy, relaxed, homogenous hair of the masses. Keesha happily slapped on the hair (she’s like that with weave – there’s no holding back), using pack after pack, weaving and gluing to produce the lolly pop effect.  Like all things taken to excess at some point you can’t take anymore. I bored of the look (having revolutionised hair care, black women are in the enviable position of being able to radically change their hair from one look to another) and constructed a new image, premised on natural and boyishly short hair, to which Keesha simply said...NO!

It was then that the natural hair prejudice was revealed. You see it was acceptable for me to sew a mass of hair on to my head, but to cut it off to its natural state and this woman who once veered away from enforcing her opinion about my hair choices, was quick to speak with authority and certainty. She felt it necessary to save me from myself and after so bullishly endeavouring on this plight, like a child in a corner (in God Bless of all places) I backed down, afraid of the result that would ensue (Keesha had the scissors and I was scared of what she’d do) and haplessly resigned myself to a fate of wigs and weaves.

CJ.