Showing posts with label black issues. Show all posts
Showing posts with label black issues. Show all posts

Wednesday, 21 April 2010

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Hairy Situations


You might remember me retelling my initial experience with my newly found, naturally bald head but I’m not sure if mentioned that the person that triggered the daring cut was one of my white colleagues.  You see, for some reason, they appreciated what I did not and saw the potential for an amazing new ‘do’.  But had it had not been for the encouragement in the work place (where my brown skin is a minority) i.e. my office manager telling me that i look like a ‘wonderfully, androgynous, little thing’ and praising every bit of growth and new styling technique; would I have still felt comfortable rocking my kinky head of hair in a corporate environment?
 
You see I work in PR, an area associated with the media and considered fashionable and accepting of new and innovative, daring styles, but i’m not a consumer ‘PR-ist’, it’s not glitz and glamour, it’s technology, its B2B and it's corporate, so when I am meeting clients I do tend to whip out my lip ring but tame my hair? Never! Why?  Because my working environment has taught me that it is acceptable because it is ME. I do wonder however, if I were to leave my fabulous work place to venture elsewhere and begin that dreaded interview process all over again, would my hair affect my ability to get a job?

This week’s blog is triggered by an article in Glamour Magazine, citing the same issues about African hair and the workplace. I’ve copied and pasted it below for those of you too lazy to click on the link but have a read.

 “Almost every black woman has had a ‘hair moment,’” said Farai Chideya, who went on to share hers with a roomful of women at Glamour’s Women, Race and Beauty panel last November. It was when a higher-up once commented that her braids made her look unprofessional. Judging from the heads nodding, most of the women in the diverse audience had heard something similar—or worse—about their looks. And it hurt.
The roundtable, which featured brilliant women of every ethnicity, was a high point in Glamour’s year, but it was triggered by a low point. Last summer, a former staffer made an unauthorized presentation to a group of female attorneys in which she commented that, in her view, Afros were “a Don’t” for work. Glamour management found out about her remark two months later and was floored. (Click here for our response.) We shared the outrage of hundreds of you who wrote in to voice disagreement. The idea that a woman cannot be herself and still get ahead at work runs contrary to Glamour’s message of empowerment.
Your letters made one thing clear: Many women of colour still feel judged according to racially biased beauty norms in their careers and sometimes even in personal relationships. It’s not just about hair and it’s not just about African American women, as you’ll see from the variety of testimonials on these pages. At a time when women of all shapes, sizes, colours and manner of hairstyles are increasingly seen in magazines and on TV and movie screens—and when Toni Morrison, the first African American woman to win the Nobel Prize for literature, proudly wears her dreads—multicultural beauty acceptance hasn’t pervaded our lives as much as we’d like to think. Those same dreads could cost you a promotion in some offices, noted some letter writers; one reader said reactions to her natural hair at work “made it seem like I’d entered a meeting in jeans and a T-shirt.” But going with straightened hair isn’t simple either, said panellist Lisa Price, founder of Carol’s Daughter beauty products: An African American woman who wants to experiment with extensions may be seen as a sell-out. Fear of saying the wrong thing stops most people from making the next crucial step—talking openly about these beauty standards. So Glamour brought together a group of journalists, academics and businesswomen to take that step. Listen in on their discuss

What are your thoughts and experiences in this area? Do you feel or know that you were turned down for a job because of the way looked? I had a friend who though she was never invited to interviews because her surname sounded too African...hmm interesting concept.
Peace, Love and Nappyness to you all xx

Wednesday, 17 March 2010

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Is Natural hair healthy hair?



Before I start spewing some facts about things that can cause damage to hair I just need to share something with you all. Anyone that is a friend of mine on facebook may have seen the quote below this week.

‘Youth is wasted on the young’ Oscar Wilde

The thought process behind the quote is simple. I went home to my mums last weekend to do my laundry (don’t judge me!) and my little sister was running around talking to her friend on loudspeaker, whilst practising some dance routine. Greeting her as I stepped into the house I noticed that her hair was very straight and in two ponytails but didn’t think too much of it. Later on Saturday evening it cross my mind and I called my mum (ready for a showdown) to ask if she had relaxed my twelve year old sisters hair. When she told me that my sister had taken it upon herself to textures her own hair, I was distraught, I felt physical pain, I felt betrayed because everyone in my household is natural and I have tried my best to pass on my knowledge so she too can love her beautiful, natural hair. Since then I’ve wondered why she didn’t do as I did and look at my brother’s healthy, 11 inch afro and think that she could have the same. Why did she ruin what was naturally given to her? I have since discussed the situation among friends and come to the conclusion that children will be children and will ultimately make their own mistakes. It just hurts to know that she doesn’t quite realise what she had in the first place L.

Okay, enough about me, let me address some issues about natural hair. How many of you assume that because one may not have any chemicals in their hair that hair is healthy? Well, if that is what you think, you are wrong.

Porosity is a form of damage caused by creating more pores in the hairs structure through breaks and cracks. It can be caused by many reasons and not even you naturals can escape it so pay attention. Here are just a few causes of porosity:

  1. Shampooing, towel drying and combing
These three are some of the most common reasons for cuticle damage and are called ‘mechanical damage’. It occurs when scrubbing the hair with shampoo, rubbing wet hair with a towel and combing wet hair to remove tangles. The more aggressive you are, the more susceptible your hair will be to damage. Because of this, I always ensure that I wash my hair with a non-abrasive substance such as conditioner and even then, I only wash my scalp, the conditioner/shampoo should be allowed to run down the hair shaft and take any grime with it, you should not have to tug on your wet hair. I also ensure that I pat my hair dry if I use a towel or I use a softer material like an old T-shirt and I never comb my hair when it is soaking wet, I will only tackle it when it has air dried for a while and is damp.

  1. Light
UV light/ sunlight also damages the cuticle with a study from the Journal of Cosmetic science showing that damage starts after 200 hours of exposure which is a fairly long time. So when you are off on those fabulous beach holidays try and take a hat and a conditioner with sun protection to prevent your hair from frying whilst you’re trying to catch some colour.

  1. Chemical Treatment (relaxing, bleaching etc)
All of these processes are an open invitation to porosity on a grand scale. Cuticle lifting, cracks, holes and entire sections of the hair structure missing are common with these types of treatments hence the thinning of the hair over time.


  1. Environmental conditions
As we all know, the British temperature sits a below 10 degrees about 70% of the year and the cold air and wind has serious effects on your hair. Even though I end up looking like a 15 year old, I try to keep my hair in protective styles for most of the winter and have done well so far this winter. I generally only undo my hair to wash it or if I’m making an effort to dazzle on the dance floor! Other than that my hair stays tucked away and moisturised until the sun comes out.

  1. Long Hair
     Those blessed with longer lengths often take their tresses for granted but remember, the          longer the hair, the older the hair, which means that it is more likely to become damaged due to the fore mentioned elements. Don’t get lazy, hold onto that drive you had when you were trying to get your hair to reach your belly button (yes that is my aim) and show your hair some love. Be sure to deep condition with different products so your hair can get the many benefits. I definitely recommend henna which is a strengthening protein treatment and I am looking forward to trying honey, yoghurt, mayonnaise and some other homemade mixes when I have the time and energy!
Sad times, I am at my word limit already…be sure to get at me next week when I’ll be taking moisture to new levels.

Peace, love and Nappyness

KN

Sunday, 14 March 2010

Calamity Jane #9 - Ninth Circle of hell (Treason)

As abruptly as it all began, it ended. ……………..

Sadly not as Hollywood would have intended; with a me walking away, pride in hand, wearing an Armani suit with shoulder pads, four inch Manolo’s, my (fake) hair swishing in the wind (think Working Girl circa 1980s), having eventually tired of the perilous bi-weekly trips to the salon, where I was physically and emotionally endangered.


No... That kind of ending belongs in fairy tales, or the modern day equivalent – Fake DVDs sold by the China man on Brixton Hill... Ironically the catastrophe that was my hairdressing experience was cut short not because I finally saw sense and walked away, but rather, because without warning Keesha, packed up shop and walked away.  In her traditional style, she did so without a second thought for the very people one would assume she would value – her clients!

Subsumed by the torrent of abuse I’d received from friends and family for my addiction fuelled persistent trips back to Keesha. Made worse by the indoctrination of my younger susceptible sister (I got her hooked and like crack it consumed her), I was ill prepared for the act of treason (or sadistic irony) that was to befall me. 

It all happened when........

With no appointment (I had quickly realised appointments were a trite semblance of order that simply did not exist in the mechanics of this salon) I took myself one Saturday morning to Peckham for a steam and a shape up. Prepared as I was for the inevitable wait with book in arm, iPod in ear, packed lunch in bag, I wasn’t surprised to find the shutters down.  I trotted along to God Bless Caribbean restaurant next door to the woman, whose arse was literally the size of a small country (I’m all for back-off but DAMN!) and requested the key to let myself in......
‘Gone you say, gone where?’... ‘I don’t know darling’ was her unconvincing response. In a panic I tried all four of Keesha’s numbers only to find the lines completely dead or diverting to voicemail. With all those numbers, it baffled me that she was so often in contactable. Hmmmm immigration? I pondered.



So, just like that with a simple exchange of stifling pleasantries, I learnt that Keesha had moved on and I was back to square one with mashed up hair, seeking a slamming cheap salon.

You see for all the waiting, the occasional burns, the stolen merchandise, the violence, bordering on child abuse, the salon remained my own private sanctuary. A place where crudeness was the order of the day and time had no common place. It provided me with countless tales that have enriched many a dinner party, and for that I will be eternally grateful.

Thank you for reading my jaunt through the inferno, which although not the requiem of spirituality Dante would have intended it be, turned out to be an entertaining exploration of the soul of the south (London that is).

For now I bid you adieu.

CJ

Blackhairstudio would like to thank Calamity Jane for her fabulous and hilarious contribution to our blog, your Nine Circles of Hell have been nine moments of pleasure for us. We hope you will be back soon!
DQ.

Wednesday, 3 March 2010

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Can nappy really mean happy?

Hey Chipolatas,


Thanks for the amazing response to last week’s blog. It’s a good thing you can all appreciate a bit of honesty, because honestly, a bit of honesty’s always honestly appreciated! 


So, I was thinking about what to write about next; could you ingest wise words, digest balanced advice and have a giggle… while patting your head and rubbing your belly?
Seriously, since I really can’t do any of that I thought it best stick to what I know.
Pondering on what part of this epic journey I should blog about, I figured how else to start but with natural perceptions. The things people think about you and don’t say. The things people assume because you wear your hair a certain way. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that naturalistas are the only people that come across such judgemental attitudes but having had relaxed hair for 10 years, the reactions from various people are often quite telling.
I’m sure every natural has heard “your hair is so nice but I couldn’t do that, my hair is too nappy.”…Hello, we have the same kind of hair!


Now, the thing that is sad but oh so true is that the bad reactions I get are from black people. People of my own race, those that have similar hair and skin to mine, those that should understand the struggle to stay natural in a Eurocentric society that is far removed from our natural selves. You’d think they’d understand…but do they? Do they ever? Now, I will talk about the reactions from men another time, another post but for now, let me draw your focus to black women.


So, what is it about a natural hair that get’s black women emotional? From the looks I get from some, I would assume it’s either the sheer disdain for what lies under their own weaves, relaxers or braids or perhaps in actual fact they honestly believe that they are somehow above you and well out of your league because they have straight hair. And it’s true, I should know. I used to be that girl sniggering with my friend because some girl’s hair didn’t blow in the wind. But when I think about it, I was actually a bit jealous, we all were. The girls that donned their natural hair generally had loads of it, thick hair that was not easily tamed. We all wanted that hair and needed the confidence to just be. 
That was way back when but as an adult I encounter the same attitudes. The need to change what is naturally given to us. It does make me wonder about the psyche of some people? If you dislike your hair so much that you would pay someone to burn it into submission, then what else would you do to change? Where does it end? Now, do not get me wrong, I am all for change be it physical or mental but having this mass of protein on my head has made me focus on my inner being, understand my culture and it has even made me question the kind of person I am. Because I am not the person that questions the beauty of the darkest skin, the fullest lips and the widest nose. I can appreciate the shortest, curliest of hair that reaches for the sun just as much as I can love caramel skin and straight hair that hangs long.


So, to the question, can nappy really mean happy I say YES, because nappy is real and only through being natural have I learnt to truly understand my culture and gain a sense of self that was never apparent before.
Only through being nappy (and I mean this in a positive way) have I learnt the real implications of the things I put in my body and on my skin. I have a better understanding of the food that the government so readily provides and the chemicals that pollute them but let’s no go to deep this week. I’m simply happy being nappy because nappy is a better me.


KN