Kinky Nikz 2.0 - The Holy Grail

I have found the most wonderful product in the world - bar none! It’s my new Holy Grail, my go to during my many times of need, desperation and crispy hair! GLYCERINE J

Vegetable glycerine also known as vegetable glycerol is a carbohydrate that is usually derived from plant oils. It is used as a sweetener and as an ingredient in a number of cosmetic products and is also used in place of alcohol to extract botanicals.

Glycerine is known to improve moisture and smoothness to your hair. It provides lubrication and acts as humectants which means it draws in moisture into your hair and skin. Glycerine is also highly "hydroscopic" which means that it absorbs water from the air. For example: if you left a bottle of pure glycerine exposed to air in your kitchen, it would take moisture from the air and eventually, it would become 80% glycerine and 20% water.

The Science

Glycerine is an organic compound composed of three carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and three OH groups. These OH groups form hydrogen bonds with water, slowing down its movement and giving liquid glycerine the property of syrup. It is also resistant to freezing, a property used in storing sensitive liquids, such as enzymes, in laboratory freezers.

Its solubility in alcohol and water has led to vast utility in the manufacturing of products. Glycerine is used in a large number of cosmetic and household products, such as toothpastes and shampoo. It is also a component of glycerine soap, which is often used by people with sensitive skin. This soap acts as moisturiser to prevent the skin from drying out. For this same reason, glycerine lotion is also hugely popular.

There are also medical uses for vegetable glycerine. Glycerine suppositories are used as laxatives. It can also be used as a topical remedy for a number of skin problems, including psoriasis, rashes, burns, bedsores, and cuts. Glycerine is also employed to treat gum disease, as it kills associated bacterial colonies.

Benefits of Glycerine for Hair

Apart from being able to return moisture back to dry hair, scalp or skin, glycerine for hair growth is also used. Using glycerine you can condition dry, frizzy and brittle hair. If you are suffering from dry, flaky scalp then rubbing some vegetable glycerine on scalp can greatly alleviate irritation. This is especially beneficial for those trying to infuse moisture into their curly locks and those who suffer from dry hair or flaky scalp issues. Apart from moisturising benefits of glycerine for hair care, it also greatly helps to strengthen the hair, which leads to less breakage of the hair, and less formation of split ends.

Precautions

It is important that you avoid using glycerine if you are staying in a place, that has extremely dry weather because glycerine on skin or hair might attract moisture from the hair strands or the skin. This can result into blisters on skin, or make the hair even drier. However, if you are using glycerine in dry weather you can try mixing it with jojoba oil, and then use it on your hair or skin. Also, while using glycerine in regular weather, mix it with water and then apply it to keep your hair and skin well moisturised.

Recipe No.1

1/4 camomile tea
1 tsp honey
2 to 3 tsp glycerine
2 to 3 tsp of your favourite vegetable oil
3 to 6 drops essential oil (3 drops rosemary, as a preservative + 3 of your favourite one for smell or just 6 rosemary oil)
Put in a spritz and shake well, You can double the proportions of oil & glycerine if you wish, but keep honey low ... will last 2 weeks

Recipe No. 2

• 4 oz. of distilled water 
• 2 Tbs. of Vegetable Glycerine
• 1 Tbs. of Jojoba Oil
• 5 drops of Rosemary Oil

My Recipe

·         25% Vegetable Glycerine

·         25% Conditioner (Hello Hydration)

·         50% Water

*I think I will begin using Aloe Vera juice in my mixture to add even more moisture*

Other products that contain glycerine include S-Curl No Drip Spray or Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion, which many naturals have quote as staple hair products as these products are all "water/glycerine" based and provide your hair with excellent moisture.

Glycerine based products:-

·          Oyin's handmade Juice and Berries (Order online) – apparently this smells gorgeous

Lusters S-Curl 

Activator/Moisturizer

 No Drip 355 ml Bonus

Wave Nouveau Moisturizer 

Finishing Mist 500 ml

Soft Sheen Carson Care

 Free Curl Instant Moisturizer 240 ml

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Hmmmm… Wig you say?

This week I wanted to touch on an interesting area that I happened to have stumbled upon in discussion twice during the week. Interestingly, the topic of wigs came up during a semi-intoxicated chat following Friday drinks at work and the discussion focused around ridiculous hairstyles.

A friend recalled a time in school when a girl came back from the Caribbean with her straight Caucasian hair in braids with beads swinging fiercely at the ends. As a result of her new experimental ‘hair do’ she was promptly made to take her hair out or risk being suspended from school. The argument on her part (and rightly so may I add) was one of discrimination. How was it that the black girls were permitted to wear braids but she was not? It’s obvious that the girl was criticised because her hairstyle was seen as only acceptable for black girls. It was probably deemed odd for her to attend school with her ‘holiday hair’. Whatever the reason though, it got me thinking about the hairstyles that black men and women choose to wear.
Wigs are huge business these days, long gone are the days when they were just used for medical reasons or for high powered barristers to decipher importance in court or for the judge to pass sentence, gabble in hand. In fact, often, even those that lose hair through illness are the ones that may now wear their bald heads proudly.

However, in 2010, wigs are all about making a fashion statement. You can craft a specific look without suffering your own hair. I mean mega star, Lady Gaga is the queen of wigs and Christina Aguilera and Pink are both patent heirs to her thrown. When entertainers do don a wig it’s all a bit jovial and entertaining, so why am I almost embarrassed at the sight of a black woman on the street in a wig? 

Don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of wigs that look great on some women but there is a certain type of wig that makes me cringe. The wigs that are glued onto a stocking cap, stocking foot or person’s head and sometimes directly onto their hair. You know the ones that are so shiny it looks like a head full of PVC? And you’re often left wondering why on earth they’ve gone out with a piece of black bag stuck to their heads. I mean seriously, fix up! I’m not really concerned with how much it all cost because regardless of the cost, it looks funny…literally, funny!!

Okay, let’s give it constructive critical look, would it be considered ‘normal’ for a white woman to don a black afro?

The answer is No. Why? Because frankly, it looks silly and unless it was for fancy dress, you wouldn’t find a white woman seriously trying to work a fake fro as if it were her hair. However, as black women we do it all the time.

Why is easier to find an image of a black women in a blonde wig wearing it as if were her own than it is to find a white woman doing the same?
It’s unfortunate that we have been too long conditioned to believe that long, straight, limp hair is beautiful and hair that grows upwards is unruly, unkempt and needs to be tamed. The mindset is the same all over the globe; where there is a television set and media broadcasts there will be Western philosophies and ideals that project a predetermined norm on a culture that doesn’t fit.

The lengths that some women go to have long and seemingly luxurious hair, sometimes at the expense of their own head of hair and sometimes scalp have and will not change. For some people (both men and women) natural hair just doesn’t reflect the image they are trying to project.

Look at what Naomi Campbell has done to herself. The struggle to live up to a standard that isn’t her default ‘norm’ is disheartening and as a black women I’m saying; ‘just let your soul glow’ and make decisions based on knowledge not popularity.

Of course, I may be biased with my nappy curls. I totally appreciate that variety is what makes life interesting but don’t be caught up/out in your own ignorance, be aware of the decisions you make and perhaps that new hairstyle won’t cost you your pride or maybe even your hair.

Controversial? Chime in and let me know your thoughts.

As always, Peace Love and Nappyness xx

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Hairy Situations

You might remember me retelling my initial experience with my newly found, naturally bald head but I’m not sure if mentioned that the person that triggered the daring cut was one of my white colleagues.  You see, for some reason, they appreciated what I did not and saw the potential for an amazing new ‘do’.  But had it had not been for the encouragement in the work place (where my brown skin is a minority) i.e. my office manager telling me that i look like a ‘wonderfully, androgynous, little thing’ and praising every bit of growth and new styling technique; would I have still felt comfortable rocking my kinky head of hair in a corporate environment?

 

You see I work in PR, an area associated with the media and considered fashionable and accepting of new and innovative, daring styles, but i’m not a consumer ‘PR-ist’, it’s not glitz and glamour, it’s technology, its B2B and it's corporate, so when I am meeting clients I do tend to whip out my lip ring but tame my hair? Never! Why?  Because my working environment has taught me that it is acceptable because it is ME. I do wonder however, if I were to leave my fabulous work place to venture elsewhere and begin that dreaded interview process all over again, would my hair affect my ability to get a job?

This week’s blog is triggered by an article in Glamour Magazine, citing the same issues about African hair and the workplace. I’ve copied and pasted it below for those of you too lazy to click on the link but have a read.

 “Almost every black woman has had a ‘hair moment,’” said Farai Chideya, who went on to share hers with a roomful of women at Glamour’s Women, Race and Beauty panel last November. It was when a higher-up once commented that her braids made her look unprofessional. Judging from the heads nodding, most of the women in the diverse audience had heard something similar—or worse—about their looks. And it hurt.

The roundtable, which featured brilliant women of every ethnicity, was a high point in Glamour’s year, but it was triggered by a low point. Last summer, a former staffer made an unauthorized presentation to a group of female attorneys in which she commented that, in her view, Afros were “a Don’t” for work. Glamour management found out about her remark two months later and was floored. (Click here for our response.) We shared the outrage of hundreds of you who wrote in to voice disagreement. The idea that a woman cannot be herself and still get ahead at work runs contrary to Glamour’s message of empowerment.

Your letters made one thing clear: Many women of colour still feel judged according to racially biased beauty norms in their careers and sometimes even in personal relationships. It’s not just about hair and it’s not just about African American women, as you’ll see from the variety of testimonials on these pages. At a time when women of all shapes, sizes, colours and manner of hairstyles are increasingly seen in magazines and on TV and movie screens—and when Toni Morrison, the first African American woman to win the Nobel Prize for literature, proudly wears her dreads—multicultural beauty acceptance hasn’t pervaded our lives as much as we’d like to think. Those same dreads could cost you a promotion in some offices, noted some letter writers; one reader said reactions to her natural hair at work “made it seem like I’d entered a meeting in jeans and a T-shirt.” But going with straightened hair isn’t simple either, said panellist Lisa Price, founder of Carol’s Daughter beauty products: An African American woman who wants to experiment with extensions may be seen as a sell-out. Fear of saying the wrong thing stops most people from making the next crucial step—talking openly about these beauty standards. So Glamour brought together a group of journalists, academics and businesswomen to take that step. Listen in on their discuss

http://www.glamour.com/magazine/2008/02/race-beauty-panel

What are your thoughts and experiences in this area? Do you feel or know that you were turned down for a job because of the way looked? I had a friend who though she was never invited to interviews because her surname sounded too African...hmm interesting concept.

Peace, Love and Nappyness to you all xx

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Long hair don't care!!!

Those that know me know that I am slightly obsessed with taking care of my hair. Even with my relaxed hair I was always very interested in growing a healthy head of hair.

During my relaxed days, I was often changing hair styles and cuts and this often meant growing my hair longer to achieve the desired style. However, my hair wouldn’t grow back properly at the nape of my neck. The hair back there has always been fine and years of shaving, toxic abuse and wrapping headscarf’s around ‘barely there hair’ took its toll and the hair just wouldn’t grow back, it would always appear patchy once it grew to a certain length but it didn’t really bother me. I just would just go ahead and cut it all off again.

When I started the natural process and my short, cropped hair begun to grow back, I was curious to see whether the back of my hair would come through for me properly and to my surprise it did. It grew back finer than the rest of my coarse naps and has some of the longest hairs on my head. In fact, my hair just generally grows much quicker now and I can actually get this fro into a single ponytail (yay!) so my goals are changing. My hair idol has hair around belly button length and yes, I intend to get there too but one step at a time!

Some of you may look at these naps and think I’m crazy but my next hair goal is armpit length and I fully believe that I will get there in no time. But there are plenty of cynics out there who actually believe that if you have afro hair it won’t grow and the only way to have long hair is to pay for it, so I thought we’d delve into this a little further.

Some of you may be familiar with the concept of terminal length. Some interpret this to mean that the majority of hair on an individual’s head reaches a certain length and then that’s it. I don’t personally believe in a limit to hair growth. Furthermore, all of the hair cannot reach a terminal length at the same time, because they weren’t “born” at the same time. Hair is always growing, but it is also always falling. It is believed that the life cycle of growing hair is anywhere from 2-7 years before the hair falls out. So faster growing hair can accomplish more in this time period. This is where genetics factors in to determine the length of the growing phase and how quickly the hair grows during this time. Keep in mind that the rate of hair growth also slows with age. Some women on the hair forums describe their hair reaching a terminal length of shoulder length or arm-pit length (apl), because it always breaks off at this particular length. I think that this limitation is due to poor care practices fragile hair types that are more susceptible to damage. These include the use of chemicals, rough handling of hair, inadequate moisture and not using protective styles (although not everyone needs to use protective styles to achieve long hair but I definitely do).

Many factors come into play in determining hair length. One factor that I will not include singularly is hair type. I mention this because many black women believe to achieve long hair they must relax/straighten the hair or that they must have a looser hair texture. Yes, looser/straighter hair is usually easier to detangle and tends to knot less often (less damage=more retention), but it does not grow faster. The average rate of growth is 1/2 inch a month with some individuals averaging more or less. Because of the fragile nature of kinky hair, issues often arise with how to detangle and care for the hair properly. This leads to most never achieving their possible length potential. There is also a theory that coily hair growth may be slowed down upon exit out of a curved follicle (the follicle shape determines the strand texture). In curly-headed individuals, the hair follicle below the scalp has a hooked end. More hooks produces even curlier hair. Genetics determines the rate of hair growth, so it is sometimes helpful to look at family members experiences with hair length, but not always. For more on terminal length and genetics, read this informative article on Terminal Length and the Role of Genetics in Black Hair Care by Audrey Sivothosy.

My tips in previous blogs will help with growing your hair long but If you are interested in further information about growing your naps longer also try visiting ‘Grow Afro Hair Long’ http://www.growafrohairlong.com/index.html

Calamity Jane - The Gym

I am a member of the infamous Fitness First in Lewisham. Regarded as such not for any frivolous reason like celebrity clientele (although I did once spot someone from Eternal – not the sisters, the other one - and as discreetly as I could, made a beeline for my phone to share the news with everyone I knew), but rather for its diabolical customer service. 1990s trashy euro pop music videos on repeat (God forbid they play music that actually appeared in the UK chart), moody staff,  faulty machinery, broken air con machine; dilapidated crumbling walls, changing facilities that smell of rotting animal and a general sub standard service. Its sole reason for continued trade is its proximity to public transport, lack of viable competition, fantastic instructors (there’s nothing like spinning at 7am with Jamie or Errol; garage and grime beats blaring from the speakers and the instructor at the front like a conductor pushing forth his orchestra). The real reason it exists is because it’s located in a poor neighbourhood where people don’t feel empowered enough to write letters of complaint and report them to the Evening Standard.

It’s January and the Christmas gorge (despite the recession people still have money for a feast) guilt has set in. The gym is as packed and it’s a sight to behold.

There’s the girl with the hard face who only smiles when there are men in the vicinity, whose relaxed short crop is so newly permed you can smell the chemical relaxer oozing from her pores as she sensually struts on the cross trainer (often in batty rider shorts - which she clearly customised from a once respectable pair of trousers and a circa 1990 crop top). She once proudly proclaimed that she avoided sweating to save her hair. I would say her inspiration for the gym was less the working out and more working men.

There is the beautiful girl with the funky long weave, who loves her hair as much as life itself. You can tell by her incessant stroking and touching, whipping her head at any given opportunity for the most grandiose effect. With every bounce of that hair, you can see her jubilation and heightened sense of worth. We once talked about going natural (and managing it with all the gym) and she looked me straight in the eye and without even the faintest hint of irony, proclaimed with pride that her hair was indeed natural. She mustn’t have seen her natural hair in excess of fifteen minutes every four weeks for the last ten years. That’s the time in-between weaves where she washes it, quickly covers it up in a baseball cap and runs to the salon hoping nobody will spot her on the bus.

The most interesting sight to behold is the assortment of ostentatious head gear proudly on display. In the Covent Garden Fitness First or indeed the Clapham or Purley gyms, the only head gear you may occasionally view is the sweat band of the ardent runner. In Lewisham, scarves, bandanas, do-rags, tights (flash back to your childhood when your mum made you wear them at night) are all tightly wrapped round women’s heads to contain the beast within. I’ve even witnessed a shower cap (not in the steam room, as one may reasonably assume, but on the treadmill). The woman had conditioned her locks, put on her cap and was pounded the treadmill for the ultimate deep conditioning steam.

For all the humour the women afford it is the men that are the truest of spectacle. In January it was them that attended in their droves, flexing their muscles in a wilful display of alpha masculinity.  Pumping, lifting, grunting - they exert such rigour; it’s a wonder they have any energy for other things in life.... like a job. My initial observation was that the scene that befell me, was to mask some kind of closeted homoeroticism. The touching, the grunting, the intentional rubbing of sweating pulsating bodies, precipitated one reasonable conclusion -  GAY.

As time went on I realised that their show of moronic masculinity was indeed for the benefit of one another (only occasionally did they preen over a woman as intently as they did one another) but there was no homosexual tendency. It was simply a performance, a grand opera, to assert their role as King of the castle. In the most base terms, men always believe they can impress a woman – even the run down, didn’t brush my hair, wearing yesterday’s clothes man will still have the audacity to approach a respectable woman, with nothing intelligent to say other then ‘pssst, pssssssst, sexy giarl, I like your backside. Can I take your number?’.

The end of my workout beckons and I drag myself to the mat area to endure the mandatory five minute waste of time, abs session. Full steam ahead I go. Dropping to the mat and rising again like a deranged jack in the box. Then out of nowhere, one of the goons stands directly behind me, so close my sweat surely must flick onto his legs. He gives the cursory nod to a man nearby (not sure if they even know one another or it’s some kind of unspoken code of conduct), he pays me no mind (indeed it’s as though the mat rather than the person on it is the only thing in view) and with no shame or even the hint of humour, lifts his top up, tenses his abs and gawks at his own reflection. He turns from side to side, getting a good view from every profile and after a full five minutes (which is a long time to stare at yourself in a public forum) he drops his t-shirt, gives himself a self ingratiating smile and saunters off. Displaying not even a glimpse of embarrassment.

Spent from fighting my way on to the machines (which the non sweat brigade used until water penetrated their weaves) and dehydrated from inhaling the pong and fumes (no air con makes for a very smelly room). I trudge home, having experienced quite the psychological workout, to eat cake and sooth my fragile nerves!

Dedicated to my father, who thinks the gym is an unproductive waste of time. And anyone who has time to go on several occasions over the course of a week needs to either get a second job or find something more intellectually changeling to occupy their time. Having watched those peacock men, strut around the gym showing off their feathers, I am inclined to agree with my dad.

CJ

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Nappy Regime

So this week was the dreaded weekend. Why? Because it involved wash day! Yes, every three weeks (well, in the winter, probably more so in the hotter months) it rolls around and i get to do my beloved treatments and try out some new fandangle deep conditioning method. So this week I thought I would take you through my hair regime.

Below is a picture of the products I used (I forgot to include the egg and herbal tea I used).

Every month I try and henna my hair as this is my chosen protein treatment. People in South Asia, North Africa and the Middle East have been using henna for years as part of their hair regime because its conditioning properties ensure strong, shiny hair that has an instant fullness. Don’t believe me? Try it out for yourself.

Now, I mix one and a half packs of henna with green tea that has cooled, honey and one egg and let the mixture sit for one hour (the length of time depends on the type of henna).

In that hour it’s time to detangle and as you have all heard, this can prove to be a time consuming process…tip to root!

After shampooing once with my gorgeous, candy smelling Neutrogena Triple Moisture shampoo, that you can only sadly get in the US, and conditioning with Hello Hydration, I allowed my hair to air dry for 20 minutes before applying the henna mixture. I know I said that I only rarely use shampoo but my hair was full of product and greasing up my pillow so it was a must.

Now this I where it gets messy…Once the henna is mixed it looks like mud and smells like bush or forest floor or hay, so once I have applied it generously all over my hair, I wrap and seal the stench with cling film and leave it to sit for six hours…that’s right, six  minimum!

Silly me! I bought the wrong henna packet and this one had loads of twigs in it! This was a nightmare to get out. The mixture takes a good few rinses go get rid of on a good day but the twigs made things even more difficult. After rinsing and co-washing (washing with conditioner) for about 20 minutes, I left my hair to deep condition with Hello Hydration for two hours but my hair was instantly fluffy and thick.

Since I didn’t actually wake up and start the treatment process until 11am by the time I finished it was 11pm (I left my henna in for eight hours) and I was knackered. Nevertheless, my hair still needed to air dry before I could twist it. I just slapped some Elasta QP Mango Butter in my hair, finger combed and plait in small sections so it so would dry overnight and bish bash bosh, the job was done!

Henna Facts:

1. Always ask for body art quality henna and not henna for hair, it has too many chemicals in it. I get mine in a wholesale shop on Ealing Road but anywhere where there is a prominent Asian community should stock it
2. Henna does dye your hair; it is a natural colorant for hair. The original stuff will dye your hair a deep red colour (depending on your natural shade) but there are some alternatives such as Indigo/ black henna. I understand Lush also stocks henna with the same conditioning properties
3. You can use henna on natural or chemically processed hair types
4. Stronger Hair – When the lawsone (dye) molecule goes into the hair it penetrates the hair shaft some, binding with the keratin in the hair. This makes hair stronger, but also is one of the qualities that make henna removal near impossible. Henna also coats the hair and fills in rough spots on a frayed cuticle. This adds a second layer of strength, but it does not lock out moisture
5. Henna makes your hair dry so it is important to follow up with a deep moisturising conditioner or your hair can become very brittle
6. Loss or reduction in curl- The protein in the henna weighs down hair strands and this in turn elongates your curl pattern and reduces shrinkage. If your curls/coils are quite loose, it may be an idea to try an alternative like cassia or bentonite clay

Please note that all of the information presented in my blogs is based on my personal experience. Make sure that you follow the links or Google any products or treatments that you are interested in using so you are fully aware of the positive and negative aspects.

Catch up next week…

Peace, Love and Nappyness J

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Napptural Product Connoisseur

One very positive aspect of being natural is that you tend to focus your energy on products/ ingredients you use in your hair, put on your skin and in your body. The effect is healing and has made me ever more conscience of the products I use. Growing up you’re exposed to hair grease and drying shampoo’s but I’m here to let both you naturals and relaxed chica’s and fella’s (if there are any out there!) in on a few secrets about the products out there.

Many commercially available hair care products denoted as being for afro hair use harmful ingredients. The following ingredients are awful for ethnic or African hair, not only stifling our hair’s health, true texture, and hair growth, but also harmful to the body.

1) Isopropyl Alcohol: Dries and Breaks Ethnic hair. It is found in colour rinses, anti-freeze

2) Mineral Oil/ Petrolatum (Hair Grease): It used as a moisturiser in afro hair care products; however, it coats Ethnic hair, actually preventing moisture from getting into the thirsty hair. It is a derivative of crude oil and a cheap industrial grease component. It also prevents the release of toxins from hair and alters the skin respiration by preventing oxygen release. Mmmhmmmm....

3) Polyethylene Glycol (PEG): Strips afro hair of critical moisture. Used as an emulsifier in products, dissolves oils and grease.

4) Propylene Glycol (PG): An active component in many afro hair care products make up, lotions, mouthwashes, and deodorant, PG is the active component of anti-freeze and actually deteriorates the protein and cellular structure of hair. Protein is what your hair needs to thrive. Workers actually use gloves and goggles when dealing with this substance due to its chemical side effects and toxicity.

5) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)/ Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) : A cheap foaming and thickening agent that strips hair of moisture and causes skin and scalp irritation. 95% of all hair shampoos contain this ingredient or a derivative. Avoid it completely; TEA lauryl is just as bad, if not worse. Do not be fooled by the use of the word TEA. Hence why i very rarely use shampoo and stick with conditioners.

6) Diethanolamine (DEA), Momoethnanolamine (MEA), Triethanolamine (TEA) : Usually listed as an ingredient containing a neutralising compound, i.e. as Cocamide DEA or Lauramide DEA, repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents are known to form cancer causing nitrates

7) Avoid Hair Colouring, Rinses, and Dyes. Look on the pack of the ingredient label and check for FD & C Colours: Many individuals with afro hair experience scalp irritation due to these. If you have an irritated scalp, your hair will not grow long or remain healthy.

8) Avoid Products with Chemical Preservatives: Nearly all brands of Black and Ethnic Skin and hair care products contain hair and health harmful toxins, especially parabens that are used to extend products’ shelf lives. While these companies make huge profits, it is at the expense of your hair and health being exposed to cancer causing elements, such as formaldehyde or formaldehyde-donors which can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin reactions and trigger heart palpitations.

9) Abandon your typical beauty supply store. Curly or ethnic hair needs natural hair care products because the sulphates, chemicals, alcohols, and silicones in 99% of hair care products have a moisture stripping effect. Ethnic hair needs moisture to grow, become strong, and stay manageable. Without moisture your hair will become dry and damaged. Try Beauty 4 Ashes GodHead ( http://www.discoverb4a.com/ a great all natural) or Tigi BedHead (Tigi Bed Head Superstar Sulfate Free Shampoo 250ml a quality synthetic shampoo). Please note, I have never used these products but they have been recommended by other natural sisters.

10) Try to purchase all natural hair care products tailored for your hair type. Visit your local health foods store or find great hair care product for purchase online. The hair care industry is finally seeing the light and making hair care products that truly work for ethnic hair. Beauty 4 Ashes Christian Health & Beauty, a beauty conglomerate, acclaimed internationally, makes 100% natural ethnic hair care products for general hair health and hair growth (www.discoverb4a.com). Their products have received great ratings in the US as well.

So, there you have it, the list of products to steer clear of but in saying all of that my key advice would be to listen to your hair. If you try something that contains one or more of the above (which i have), don’t fret. If your hair enjoys it then it may not be so bad after all but at least you’re enlightened as to what exactly it is.

Peace, Love and Nappyness dudes!

KN

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Is Natural hair healthy hair?

Before I start spewing some facts about things that can cause damage to hair I just need to share something with you all. Anyone that is a friend of mine on facebook may have seen the quote below this week.

‘Youth is wasted on the young’ Oscar Wilde

The thought process behind the quote is simple. I went home to my mums last weekend to do my laundry (don’t judge me!) and my little sister was running around talking to her friend on loudspeaker, whilst practising some dance routine. Greeting her as I stepped into the house I noticed that her hair was very straight and in two ponytails but didn’t think too much of it. Later on Saturday evening it cross my mind and I called my mum (ready for a showdown) to ask if she had relaxed my twelve year old sisters hair. When she told me that my sister had taken it upon herself to textures her own hair, I was distraught, I felt physical pain, I felt betrayed because everyone in my household is natural and I have tried my best to pass on my knowledge so she too can love her beautiful, natural hair. Since then I’ve wondered why she didn’t do as I did and look at my brother’s healthy, 11 inch afro and think that she could have the same. Why did she ruin what was naturally given to her? I have since discussed the situation among friends and come to the conclusion that children will be children and will ultimately make their own mistakes. It just hurts to know that she doesn’t quite realise what she had in the first place L.

Okay, enough about me, let me address some issues about natural hair. How many of you assume that because one may not have any chemicals in their hair that hair is healthy? Well, if that is what you think, you are wrong.

Porosity is a form of damage caused by creating more pores in the hairs structure through breaks and cracks. It can be caused by many reasons and not even you naturals can escape it so pay attention. Here are just a few causes of porosity:

1. Shampooing, towel drying and combing

These three are some of the most common reasons for cuticle damage and are called ‘mechanical damage’. It occurs when scrubbing the hair with shampoo, rubbing wet hair with a towel and combing wet hair to remove tangles. The more aggressive you are, the more susceptible your hair will be to damage. Because of this, I always ensure that I wash my hair with a non-abrasive substance such as conditioner and even then, I only wash my scalp, the conditioner/shampoo should be allowed to run down the hair shaft and take any grime with it, you should not have to tug on your wet hair. I also ensure that I pat my hair dry if I use a towel or I use a softer material like an old T-shirt and I never comb my hair when it is soaking wet, I will only tackle it when it has air dried for a while and is damp.

2. Light

UV light/ sunlight also damages the cuticle with a study from the Journal of Cosmetic science showing that damage starts after 200 hours of exposure which is a fairly long time. So when you are off on those fabulous beach holidays try and take a hat and a conditioner with sun protection to prevent your hair from frying whilst you’re trying to catch some colour.

3. Chemical Treatment (relaxing, bleaching etc)

All of these processes are an open invitation to porosity on a grand scale. Cuticle lifting, cracks, holes and entire sections of the hair structure missing are common with these types of treatments hence the thinning of the hair over time.

4. Environmental conditions

As we all know, the British temperature sits a below 10 degrees about 70% of the year and the cold air and wind has serious effects on your hair. Even though I end up looking like a 15 year old, I try to keep my hair in protective styles for most of the winter and have done well so far this winter. I generally only undo my hair to wash it or if I’m making an effort to dazzle on the dance floor! Other than that my hair stays tucked away and moisturised until the sun comes out.

5. Long Hair

     Those blessed with longer lengths often take their tresses for granted but remember, the          longer the hair, the older the hair, which means that it is more likely to become damaged due to the fore mentioned elements. Don’t get lazy, hold onto that drive you had when you were trying to get your hair to reach your belly button (yes that is my aim) and show your hair some love. Be sure to deep condition with different products so your hair can get the many benefits. I definitely recommend henna which is a strengthening protein treatment and I am looking forward to trying honey, yoghurt, mayonnaise and some other homemade mixes when I have the time and energy!

HENNA WAX ORIGINAL

 HAIR CONDITIONER 400GM

 NATURAL CLASSIC

Sad times, I am at my word limit already…be sure to get at me next week when I’ll be taking moisture to new levels.

Peace, love and Nappyness

KN

Calamity Jane #9 - Ninth Circle of hell (Treason)

As abruptly as it all began, it ended. ……………..

Sadly not as Hollywood would have intended; with a me walking away, pride in hand, wearing an Armani suit with shoulder pads, four inch Manolo’s, my (fake) hair swishing in the wind (think Working Girl circa 1980s), having eventually tired of the perilous bi-weekly trips to the salon, where I was physically and emotionally endangered.

No... That kind of ending belongs in fairy tales, or the modern day equivalent – Fake DVDs sold by the China man on Brixton Hill... Ironically the catastrophe that was my hairdressing experience was cut short not because I finally saw sense and walked away, but rather, because without warning Keesha, packed up shop and walked away.  In her traditional style, she did so without a second thought for the very people one would assume she would value – her clients!

Subsumed by the torrent of abuse I’d received from friends and family for my addiction fuelled persistent trips back to Keesha. Made worse by the indoctrination of my younger susceptible sister (I got her hooked and like crack it consumed her), I was ill prepared for the act of treason (or sadistic irony) that was to befall me. 

It all happened when........

With no appointment (I had quickly realised appointments were a trite semblance of order that simply did not exist in the mechanics of this salon) I took myself one Saturday morning to Peckham for a steam and a shape up. Prepared as I was for the inevitable wait with book in arm, iPod in ear, packed lunch in bag, I wasn’t surprised to find the shutters down.  I trotted along to God Bless Caribbean restaurant next door to the woman, whose arse was literally the size of a small country (I’m all for back-off but DAMN!) and requested the key to let myself in......

‘Gone you say, gone where?’... ‘I don’t know darling’ was her unconvincing response. In a panic I tried all four of Keesha’s numbers only to find the lines completely dead or diverting to voicemail. With all those numbers, it baffled me that she was so often in contactable. Hmmmm immigration? I pondered.

So, just like that with a simple exchange of stifling pleasantries, I learnt that Keesha had moved on and I was back to square one with mashed up hair, seeking a slamming cheap salon.

You see for all the waiting, the occasional burns, the stolen merchandise, the violence, bordering on child abuse, the salon remained my own private sanctuary. A place where crudeness was the order of the day and time had no common place. It provided me with countless tales that have enriched many a dinner party, and for that I will be eternally grateful.

Thank you for reading my jaunt through the inferno, which although not the requiem of spirituality Dante would have intended it be, turned out to be an entertaining exploration of the soul of the south (London that is).

For now I bid you adieu.

CJ

Blackhairstudio would like to thank Calamity Jane for her fabulous and hilarious contribution to our blog, your Nine Circles of Hell have been nine moments of pleasure for us. We hope you will be back soon!

DQ.

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Learning how to maintain your naps

How many of you remember lifting your shoulders to your ears and wincing in pain as your mother dragged a comb through your tightly coiled hair? Or loving that you get to undo your braids but hating when wash day came around? My first memories of a young girl with natural hair were never associated with positivity, just pain and unhappiness. As soon as my plaits were let loose I used to jump around and shake my head like the women on the television advertising hair products but I dare anyone to try and hold me down to get it washed...It was horrible and I swear my mum was trying to drown me. 
It is easy to reflect and laugh at the whole experience but I’m pretty certain that the actions of our parents/hairdressers is what allows those with thick curly/coily hair believe that are hair is unruly, unmanageable and bad. It makes us believe that this is the type of hair that needs to be tamed when the truth is; it was just never cared for properly. So, I thought that I would scrape the surface this week and discuss a few key factors that will ensure healthy, long (yes long!), afro hair.

1. No, dirt does not grow your hair lol

Growing up I was often told that I shouldn’t wash my hair too often as it was bad for your hair and would make your hair break. Seriously, this was the belief and I know people that only washed their hair every six months because apparently this was fact. What nonsense! The truth is that washing your hair often and using the right products can have a really positive effect on afro hair. Water is one of the few substances that can actually penetrate the hairs cuticle and acts as a moisturiser, hence why your hair always feels soft when wet. A problem only occurs when the hair is not fully cared for following a wash and moisture is not replenished. I will discuss the different moisturising products and methods in another blog.

2. Use the right equipment

I’m sure that most of you realise that to avoid breakage you should use a wide toothed comb to detangle hair when wet or damp but your comb should be seamless. Check the inside and edges of your comb and the line that goes down each tooth for bad manufacturing which can mean that the seams overlap and snag the hair during combing. Bone combs are typically made of resin and are seamless, wooden combs spread the scalps natural oil throughout the hair and tortoise combs glide through hair. Check out Sally’s beauty supply shop to find ‘tenderheaded accessories’ or ‘honeyfig’ which supply a seamless comb range. 
If you prefer brushes, try the trusty denman brush or if you feel like splurging the mason pearson combs and brushes although it does nothing but give me split ends.

3. Combing your curlies

Stop combing your hair so much! Excessive grooming can cause split ends. When I tell people that I very rarely comb my hair they look surprised but all l I need is my fingers. I spritz my hair with some water and coconut oil or an everyday conditioner (usually Pantene/ Aussie moist) and finger comb or use my metal rat tail comb for straight partings when I’m plaiting it. I would not even attempt to rake a comb through my dry hair, the more tightly curled your hair is the more gentle you need to be, so I gently comb through my hair from tip to root on wash day and then leave it alone. If I need to manipulate it into a style then a little conditioner and some braids or twists generally does the trick.
Detangling knotted hair 
It’s a good idea to detangle your hair before washing it. Once hair is wet, the cuticles can lift, causing hair to snarl even further.


1. First, identify the tangle and separate it from the rest of your hair with your fingers.
2. Start at the bottom of the tangle and use the detangling comb to gently start picking through the snarl.
3. Work your way up the tangle until you’re able to comb through it without tugging. This may take a lot of patience and you may need to turn the detangling comb sideways and use a single tooth on the end of the comb to work through a very tight snarl.
4. To prevent tangles in the future, be sure to comb out your wet hair after shampooing, conditioning and applying a leave-in conditioner. (Never, ever brush wet hair – hair is very fragile when it’s wet and a brush could stretch the fiber, causing it to snap).
That’s all for now folks but next week I will be talking more about hair processes that work.


KN