Wednesday, 17 March 2010

Kinky Nikz 2.0 - Is Natural hair healthy hair?



Before I start spewing some facts about things that can cause damage to hair I just need to share something with you all. Anyone that is a friend of mine on facebook may have seen the quote below this week.

‘Youth is wasted on the young’ Oscar Wilde

The thought process behind the quote is simple. I went home to my mums last weekend to do my laundry (don’t judge me!) and my little sister was running around talking to her friend on loudspeaker, whilst practising some dance routine. Greeting her as I stepped into the house I noticed that her hair was very straight and in two ponytails but didn’t think too much of it. Later on Saturday evening it cross my mind and I called my mum (ready for a showdown) to ask if she had relaxed my twelve year old sisters hair. When she told me that my sister had taken it upon herself to textures her own hair, I was distraught, I felt physical pain, I felt betrayed because everyone in my household is natural and I have tried my best to pass on my knowledge so she too can love her beautiful, natural hair. Since then I’ve wondered why she didn’t do as I did and look at my brother’s healthy, 11 inch afro and think that she could have the same. Why did she ruin what was naturally given to her? I have since discussed the situation among friends and come to the conclusion that children will be children and will ultimately make their own mistakes. It just hurts to know that she doesn’t quite realise what she had in the first place L.

Okay, enough about me, let me address some issues about natural hair. How many of you assume that because one may not have any chemicals in their hair that hair is healthy? Well, if that is what you think, you are wrong.

Porosity is a form of damage caused by creating more pores in the hairs structure through breaks and cracks. It can be caused by many reasons and not even you naturals can escape it so pay attention. Here are just a few causes of porosity:

  1. Shampooing, towel drying and combing
These three are some of the most common reasons for cuticle damage and are called ‘mechanical damage’. It occurs when scrubbing the hair with shampoo, rubbing wet hair with a towel and combing wet hair to remove tangles. The more aggressive you are, the more susceptible your hair will be to damage. Because of this, I always ensure that I wash my hair with a non-abrasive substance such as conditioner and even then, I only wash my scalp, the conditioner/shampoo should be allowed to run down the hair shaft and take any grime with it, you should not have to tug on your wet hair. I also ensure that I pat my hair dry if I use a towel or I use a softer material like an old T-shirt and I never comb my hair when it is soaking wet, I will only tackle it when it has air dried for a while and is damp.

  1. Light
UV light/ sunlight also damages the cuticle with a study from the Journal of Cosmetic science showing that damage starts after 200 hours of exposure which is a fairly long time. So when you are off on those fabulous beach holidays try and take a hat and a conditioner with sun protection to prevent your hair from frying whilst you’re trying to catch some colour.

  1. Chemical Treatment (relaxing, bleaching etc)
All of these processes are an open invitation to porosity on a grand scale. Cuticle lifting, cracks, holes and entire sections of the hair structure missing are common with these types of treatments hence the thinning of the hair over time.


  1. Environmental conditions
As we all know, the British temperature sits a below 10 degrees about 70% of the year and the cold air and wind has serious effects on your hair. Even though I end up looking like a 15 year old, I try to keep my hair in protective styles for most of the winter and have done well so far this winter. I generally only undo my hair to wash it or if I’m making an effort to dazzle on the dance floor! Other than that my hair stays tucked away and moisturised until the sun comes out.

  1. Long Hair
     Those blessed with longer lengths often take their tresses for granted but remember, the          longer the hair, the older the hair, which means that it is more likely to become damaged due to the fore mentioned elements. Don’t get lazy, hold onto that drive you had when you were trying to get your hair to reach your belly button (yes that is my aim) and show your hair some love. Be sure to deep condition with different products so your hair can get the many benefits. I definitely recommend henna which is a strengthening protein treatment and I am looking forward to trying honey, yoghurt, mayonnaise and some other homemade mixes when I have the time and energy!
Sad times, I am at my word limit already…be sure to get at me next week when I’ll be taking moisture to new levels.

Peace, love and Nappyness

KN

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